Watches · Zenith

Market trend (recent months)

Brand overview

Zenith is the Swiss manufacture famous for creating El Primero — the first high-frequency integrated automatic chronograph (36,000 vibrations/hour). Founded in 1865, Zenith has always pushed the boundaries of mechanical precision, earning the historic record for the greatest number of observatory chronometry prizes won.

Georges Favre-Jacot revolutionised the way watches were produced by bringing all watchmaking trades under one roof. The name 'Zenith' was chosen to indicate the highest point reached by his art. Absolute glory came in 1969 with El Primero — a movement so advanced that it was also used by Rolex for its Daytona for over a decade. During the quartz crisis, employee Charles Vermot secretly hid the moulds and machinery needed to produce El Primero, saving the brand's future when management wanted to destroy them. Today, as part of the LVMH group, Zenith continues to innovate with calibres capable of measuring 1/100 of a second and modern designs such as the Defy line.

Iconic models and lines

• El Primero A384/A385/A386 (1969) — The original models that introduced the modern automatic chronograph.
• Chronomaster Sport (2021-present) — A contemporary interpretation of the high-frequency chronograph.

What collectors watch for

• Original 1969 references (A386)
• Zenith movements used by other brands (Rolex, Movado)
• 'Cairelli' models (military chronographs)
• 1990s Zenith 'Rainbow'

Curiosities

• El Primero was the first automatic chronograph movement to beat at 5Hz.
• Charles Vermot saved El Primero production by hiding the plans in an attic.
• Zenith is the only brand authorised to write 'Pilot' on its watch dials.

Frequently asked questions