Watches · Cartier
Cartier is celebrated as the 'Jeweller of Kings' and the 'King of Jewellers', but its contribution to watchmaking is equally revolutionary. Inventor of the first modern men's wristwatch (Santos), the Parisian brand has blended bold geometries with refined mechanics, creating timeless icons such as the Tank and the Pasha that transcend passing trends.
Total lots: 276
With sold price: 7
Average sold price: €3,032.29
Highest sold price: €5,000.00
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Brand overview
Cartier is celebrated as the 'Jeweller of Kings' and the 'King of Jewellers', but its contribution to watchmaking is equally revolutionary. Inventor of the first modern men's wristwatch (Santos), the Parisian brand has blended bold geometries with refined mechanics, creating timeless icons such as the Tank and the Pasha that transcend passing trends.
Louis Cartier was a visionary who understood before others the transition from pocket watch to wristwatch. The collaboration with watchmaker Edmond Jaeger allowed Cartier to equip its elegant cases with movements of the highest calibre. Cartier's design is characterised by Roman numerals, the 'chemin de fer' minute track and the cabochon sapphire on the winding crown. Beyond jewellery, Cartier has established itself in high technical watchmaking with the 'Fine Watchmaking' collection, producing tourbillons and perpetual calendars. In recent years, the revival of historical models through the 'Collection Privée Cartier Paris' (CPCP) line has generated strong interest among the most sophisticated collectors.
Iconic models and lines
- Tank (1917-present) — Icon of rectangular elegance worn by artists and royals alike.
- Santos (1904-present) — The first men's sports wristwatch.
What collectors watch for
- Vintage Cartier London models (e.g. Crash)
- Examples with dials signed 'Paris'
- Rarity of CPCP (Collection Privée) models
- Noble materials (Platinum and Gold)
Curiosities
- The Tank was gifted to General John Pershing in 1918.
- The Crash Watch design reportedly originated from a watch distorted in a car accident.
- Cartier was among the first maisons to use synthetic sapphire for crowns.
Frequently asked questions
Why is the Cartier Tank so famous?
For its ability to remain modern for over a century. It has been worn by Andy Warhol, Lady Diana and Muhammad Ali, becoming a universal symbol of style.
What does 'Must de Cartier' mean?
Launched in the 1970s, it was a more accessible line in gold-plated silver (vermeil) designed to counter the quartz crisis — today highly sought after in the entry-level vintage market.
Are all Cartier watches mechanical?
No, Cartier uses both high-precision quartz movements and mechanical manufacture movements or those derived from the best Swiss producers.
How do you distinguish a vintage Santos from a modern one?
Modern models feature a quick-release strap system (SmartLink) and larger case proportions compared to the Galbée models of the 1980s and 1990s.